Brussels sprouts (I've always pronounced it Brussel sprouts, singular, but apparently I've always been wrong) are the ultimate vegetable. You start out with a little lettuce, move on to beets, think you've hit the big time with parsnips, and then you come to Brussels sprouts. This is the vegetable that brings all faint-hearted would-be herbivores to their knees. I'm about three steps short of becoming a vegetarian and even I have always struggled with these little characters. As a child, I called them "little cabages" and I remember liking them fairly well although I always thought they were a little bland. As an adult, I was turned off by Brussel sprouts' tart flavor. Learning how to cook Brussel sprouts is a right of passage for anyone who claims to be a foodie and critics love to rave about their favorite ways to prepare them.
I picked up my CSA box tonight and there was a full pound of fresh organic Brussel sprouts. The Farm Notes offered up a recepie that sounded amazing, so I thought I'd give them a shot this evening, even though I usually don't cook on week nights. The recepie, adapted from the November 2006 isue of Gourmet magazine (rest in peace) called for a large shallot, but I didn't have one so I used a large onion - twice the size, half the flavor. I also used less butter and twice as many chanterelles. The results are amazing. Besides the obvious (lots of butter makes just about anyting delicious), I think the key here is to overcook the Brussel sprouts. They were practically falling apart in the pan when I pulled it out of the oven and easily crushed by the tongs I used to pull them out pan. I think the problem I've been having the last few years is that I've tried hard not to overcook vegetables and, as a result, I've undercooked my Brussels.
Brussels Sprouts with Shallots and Wild Mushrooms
1 lb Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
1 Tbsp olive oil
1-2 cloves minced garlic
pinch of salt
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 large shallot, cut crosswise into thin slices (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
.4 lb mixed fresh chanterelle mushrooms, trimmed, quartered if large
a splash of dry white wine
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
a pinch of salt & black pepper
1/6 cup water
Put oven rack in upper third of oven and preheat oven to 450°F.
Toss Brussels sprouts with oil, garlic, salt, and pepper, then spread out in 1 layer in 2 large shallow baking pans (17 by 12 inches). Roast, stirring occasionally and switching position of pans halfway through roasting, until tender and browned, 25 to 35 minutes. Cook's note: tossing is a big pain. I threw them in the pan, covered them in olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic powder, rolled them over, did it all again, and called it good.
Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until temperature measures 250°F (see cooks' note, below), then fry shallots in 3 batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes per batch (watch closely, as shallots can burn easily). Quickly transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, spreading in a single layer. (Shallots will crisp as they cool.) Pour off oil from skillet (do not clean).
Heat 5 tablespoons butter in skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then sauté mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and tender, about 7 minutes.
Add wine, thyme, salt, and pepper and boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes. Add water (1/6 cup) and remaining tablespoon butter and simmer, swirling skillet, until butter is melted. Transfer to a serving dish and stir in Brussels sprouts. Sprinkle with some of shallots and serve with remaining shallots on the side.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
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